As a mountain country Switzerland has two high seasons — winter for snow, summer for the trails — and two gaps between them in which many mountain railways stop for maintenance. Travellers who do not know this arrive in May to find the valley stations shut.
Altitude decides, not the month
Rule of thumb: temperature drops about 0.6 degrees per 100 metres. If Lugano at 270 metres has 28 degrees, the Jungfraujoch at 3454 is around freezing. Always pack a warm layer, even in August.
The seasons
- December to March — winter season. Skiing, Christmas markets, price peaks over Christmas, New Year and the February school holidays. The valleys often sit under fog while the sun shines above
- April to mid-June — first shoulder season. Cheapest and quietest, but many mountain railways are closed and higher trails stay under snow until late June. Down below, everything is in flower
- July and August — hiking season. Every railway runs, every pass is open, every hut is staffed. Also the most expensive and busiest time; afternoon thunderstorms are common
- September to mid-October — the best period. Stable weather, long-range visibility, autumn colour, fewer people, railways still running. If you can choose freely, choose September
- Late October to November — second shoulder season. Fog on the plateau, railways under maintenance, mountain restaurants shut. The cheapest weeks of the year
By region
- Bernese Oberland and Valais: July to September for walking, January to March for skiing
- Ticino: May to October; as the southernmost region, spring starts six weeks earlier
- Lake Geneva and Lavaux: all year, at its best during the September and October harvest
- The cities — Zurich, Bern, Basel, Lucerne: all year, independent of railway timetables
- Grisons and Engadine: February and March for snow with sun, September for the larches turning gold
Dates worth planning around
- Basel Carnival, the Monday after Ash Wednesday, starting at four in the morning with the Morgestraich — UNESCO intangible heritage
- 1 August, national day, with bonfires on the summits and fireworks
- Alpabzug in September: decorated cattle return to the valley, in Appenzell and the Bernese Oberland
- Montreux Jazz Festival in July, Locarno Film Festival in August
- Christmas markets from late November, largest in Basel and Zurich
- Swiss school holidays in February, July and August push resort prices up
The short answer
For a first trip combining cities and mountains: September. Stable weather, everything open, clear air, moderate prices. If budget matters most: late October or November for the cities, but not for the mountains — up there it is closed.